Sheathing On

 

The roof had a ridge pole to make it more rigid and to help with snow load.  The rafters were all 2x8. 

a ridge pole  is supported at either end of the building, so that if snow gets really heavy, the outward thrust of the roof onto the side walls will be lessened by its end support.  This makes it less important to have cross beams, so the space can be opened up.  I will see if the roof sheds snow easily, which it should do because of the rather steep angle, but if it does not, I will put in a couple of wrought iron cross bars to mitigate the thrust.  I think that the wrought iron will be fairly unobtrusive and will be in keeping with the more or less Victorian look of the interior.   I have a wrought iron and Oak chandelier that I can hang up in the roof vault, so I think it will all blend well.

My stepfather, Paul McLaughlin and I turned the central shaft of the chandelier from a hunk of Oak that came from the tree that I used to swing on as a child.

I screwed plywood on with bronze deck screws

The bump out allowed for more length for a bed oriented the length of the trailer, while the bed below was across the space.  This gave more floor space while giving me a place to sleep four.  The "sills" of the bump out were screwed to the top plates of the main house to cantilever out into space.  The cantilevered floor had to be insulated carefully to avoid drafts.

 



 

 

 

I also regret not having my pictures of the roofing.  The roof was covered with a thick, sticky asphalt membrane, then shingled over with asphalt shingles.  The membrane literally melts on to the decking and itself.  The ridge was left open a couple of inches and a ridge vent system was put in to ventilate under the roof.  Foam channels under the insulation against the under side of the plywood, channel air from the eave vents to the ridge vent.